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THE BIEBRZA MARSHES - SZUSZALEWO NATURE TRAIL
The nature trail runs between Szuszalewska and Ja³owska Islands, it links two observation towers by a foot-bridge going through the marshes (Drawing 1). It is located north-east from the road between D±browa Bia³ostocka and Lipsk. The trail can be reached by your own vehicle to the tower on Ja³owska Island located 4 km from the Lipsk town, or to a tower on Szuszalewska Island which is 7 km away from the D±browa Bia³ostocka town. You can also get to the trail by bus which runs between D±browa Bia³ostocka and Lipsk, then you need to get off near the Szuszalewo village (2 km from the trail start) or near the Ja³owo village (1 km from the trail).
The nature trail is 2,5 km long and it is a walking trail which can be approached by people of different age and physical condition. Nevertheless, it is advised to wear comfortable sports shoes (not necessarily rubber boots) and to take repellents against insects. A special attraction of the trail is a walk through the marshes on 700 m long foot-bridge, which links two mineral islands surrounded by endless peatbogs. The trail starts and ends with observation towers, there are 5 stops on the road, where you can watch the Biebrza Valley’s natural peculiarities: interesting plant species, rare in Poland and Europe plant communities which are characteristic for huge marshy river valleys, as well as inhabitants of the wetlands – birds, reptiles, insects and big phytophagous mammals (mainly Elks).
The trail is located almost completely within borders of the Biebrza National Park, thus it is necessary to remember the rules binding on protection areas. You will be informed about it by a short information printed on the Park’s entrance tickets. The ticket is your pass, without it you are not allowed walking further. Tickets can be purchased in The Lipsk Town Cultural Center (28 Rynek Str.), in the Biebrza National Park headquarters in Osowiec-Twierdza and in many other locations in the Park (detailed information can be found at www.biebrza.org.pl ).
The trail starts at the tower located on the border of mineral island (Ja³owska Island) on its western side. Ja³owska Island similarly to Szuszalewska Island was created by erosion processes of waters flowing from the Niemen Valley to the Biebrza Valley at the time of plateau areas creation during Middle Poland glaciation. Water masses scoured channels, which after the Niemen water stopped flowing, started marsh creating process. (This process had started about 10,000 years ago during preboreal and boreal period). High moraine relic mountains consisting of clays and gravels rise above peat plain over 45 m (Szuszalewska Island).
A beautiful view unfolds from the tower onto the Biebrza Valley. It is possible to observe woods and scrubs spread among endless marshes. Each year these communities spread and fill open space of moss and sedge communities which is not advantageous for many domestic flora and fauna species.
From the tower the trail goes along the island’s edge west and then south. You can watch panorama of marshes, which look really splendid from this point of view. After 400 m walk you will reach the first stop.
Stop I – Sandy dry grassland (Diantho-Armerietum elongatae)
Sandy dry grassland is a community combined mainly of narrow-leaved grasses – Sheep’s Fescue (Festuca ovina) and Common Bent (Agrostis capillaris), Breskland Thyme (Thymus serpyllum), Mouse-ear Hawkweed (Hieracium pilosella), Maiden Pink (Dianthus deltoides), Thrift (Armeria maritima subsp. elongata), and Lady’s Bedstraw (Galium verum). The assemblage occurs on poor, sandy and loamy soils in dry extensively used pastures or overgrowing fallows. The grassland, appeared on a steep slope with a strong sun exposure.
You are leaving the grassland and go down the island’s slope into the patbogs. Height difference of several tens of meters enables to notice from the top a wooden foot-bridge leading through the marshes. After a 250 m long walk by the bridge you are reaching next (II) stop.
In the beginning the view of the Valley from the left is limited by scrubs of Downy Birch (Betula pubescens) and Grey Willow (Salix cinerea). On the right, some 40 % of peatbog’s surface is covered by single clumps of willows and birches, no open areas is observed now. You may notice sedges, colourful herbs, brown mosses and peatmosses in the surrounding ground flora. Vegetation is abundant here in Bogbean (Menyanthes trifoliata) and Marsh Cinquefoil (Comarum palustre) with large quantities of orchids – Early Marsh Orchid (Dactylorhiza incarnata) in both subspecies (Dactylorhiza incarnata sbsp. incarnata and Dactylorhiza incarnata sbsp. ochroleuca) as well as Marsh Helleborine (Epipactis palustris).
| A panorama of the Valley from Ja³owska Island |
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Stop II – Scrubs of Shrubby Birch and Rosemary-lived Willow (Betulo-Salicetum repentis)
Scrubs of Shrubby Birch and Rosemary-lived Willow consist of shrubs from Betula and Salix genus, and they are accompanied by Downy Birch and Common Birch, Scots Pine and Juniper. The ground flora is enriched by raised peatbog species, like: Bog Rosemary (Andromeda polifolia), Cranberry (Oxycoccus palustris), Labrador Tea (Ledum palustre), Common Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia), Harestail Cotton-grass (Eriophorum vaginatum), and numerous mosses: Ribbed Bog Moss (Aulacomnium palustre), Midway Peat Moss (Sphagnum magellanicum), and Sphagnum rubellum. You may encounter transitional peatbog species, swamp and meadow species, as well as one of rare elements of domestic flora – Cotton Deergrass. Betulo-Salicetum repentis community is of boreal-continental character. These communities are very rare in Poland, they occur mainly in north-east of the country on rare relic sites.
After another 100 m distance from the last stop you are reaching the next – IIIrd stop.
Stop III - Cotton Deergrass (Baeothryon alpinum)
Cotton Deergrass occurs here near Shrubby Birch or within clumps of peatmosses, which create in scrubs phytocenosis of Shrubby Birch and Rosemary-lived Willow moss-carpets.
Cotton Deergrass, which is a sedge family (Cyperaceae) member, is a perennial plant which creates loose turf. Its relatively low (8-15cm), numerous, stiff, slightly rough stems end with inconspicuous flowers. Only at fruiting, white smooth bristles of perianth become woolly, which makes the plant possible to notice against the background of browny-green peatmosses. Cotton Deergrass blooms from May until June. It grows in moss and sedge communities in transitional peatbogs. They occur in Poland in West Pomerania, Lubuski Region, Sudety and Tatry Mountains but most frequently in Suwalki Region. In the Biebrza Valley the plant occurs in areas surrounding Ja³owo and Szuszalewo. The species is a glacial relict of subarctic-subalpine range. It grows in Scandinavia, Lithuania, Estonia and northern Russia as well as in Middle Europe’s mountains. Similarly as in Germany and Slovakia the plant is threatened with extinction in Poland.
| Cotton Deergrass (Baeothryon alpinum) |
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Stop III is the last one located by the bridge. The next 300 m is a walk through thinner willow-birch scrubs and a view of open peatbog areas unfold before your eyes. Leave the foot-bridge at the level of first buildings of the Szuszalewo village and then go westwards along the road leading through the low edge of the island. After 700m long walk you reach the next stop. It is possible to get 200-300m deep into the marshes in the Biebrza river direction from this place. After the first tens of meters you can enjoy contact with unspoiled nature.
Stop IV - The road to marshes
You are surrounded by sedge-moss communities from Caricion lasiocarpae compound. Ground vegetation consists of sedges: Lesser Tussock Sedge (Carex diandra), String Sedge (Carex chordorrhiza), Bog Sedge (Carex limosa), and Dioecious Sedge (Carex dioica) and many other common species. The communities are well hydrated with rich moss layer which consists mainly of the following species: Scorpidium scorpioides, Calliergonella cuspidata, Aulacomnium palustre and Paludella squarrosa. You can also see shrubs of Shrubby Birch, Rosemary-leaved Willow, Bay Willow, and Grey Willow. There is observed Downy Birch abundance which grows up to 3-5 meters. Locally, the ground vegetation has a hummocks and hollows structure with a number of Cranberry (Oxycoccus palustris) and Bog Rosemary (Andromeda polifolia), and also species that grow on hummocks created by peatmosses - Sphagnum squarrosum, Sphagnum rubellum, and Sphagnum cuspidatum. A frequent species is a carnivorous plant - Common Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia) a plant with a peculiar biology. Common Sundew is one of four sundew species (apart from Great Sundew - Drosera anglica, Long-leaved Sundew - Drosera intermedia and Hybrid Sundew - Drosera xobovata), which may be encountered on high and transitional peatbogs within the whole Poland. This carnivorous perennial plant has leaves equipped with gland hairs which produce digestive enzymes. A captured insect is digested inside a leave-trap which enables the plant to make up a shortage in nitrogen which often occurs in poor soils of high peatbogs.
| The road leading to the Biebrza river |
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Now you are getting back to the edge of the island. Walk the next 100 m. Between low sedge, herbs and grasses, just at the mineral edge you should find a site of the next orchid.
Stop V - Fen Orchid (Liparis loeselii)
Fen Orchid (Liparis loeselii) is a small orchid with a stem thicker at base wrapped with leaves. Two elliptical leaves and an inconspicuous inflorescence consisting of a few yellow-green flowers make the plant invisible between brown mosses and sedges which create low-sedge bog-spring on acid bogs. The orchid blooms from May until July. The plant occurs mainly in small clumps of several to tens of individuals. In this particular area you may observe 3 individuals of this species. Fen Orchid is threatened with extinction in Poland. Currently, they are present at 52 sites, most of which are located in Masurian Lake District. The species’s range is circumboreal, in Europe it occurs from British Isles to East European Plain, and from Scandinavian Peninsula to Apennine Penisula.
Behind this stop the trail leads further 200 m through a mineral edge of the island and ends with a tower, which is the last stage of the trip. Again you may admire the Biebrza wetlands panorama. You will spot the Nowy Lipsk village’s buildings, observation tower on Ja³owska Island and a church tower in the Lipsk town. Look south to see D±browa Bia³ostocka’s panorama. Impressed by the unforgettable experience you are getting back home ... or turn your steps towards the second nature trail The Biebrza Marshes - Nowy Lipsk.
text: Beata Matowicka and Aleksander Ko³os
translation: Cezary Naliwajek
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
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www.carnivores.w.interia.pl
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